Treasure from the Lacquer Sea: The Rebirth Journey of Lacquer and Mother-of-Pearl Jewelry
Prologue: A Thousand-Year Promise
Morning light filters through the window, scattering flecks of light in the studio. The air carries the unique, fresh, earthy scent of raw lacquer. On the workbench lie two gifts from nature: a jar of milky-white raw lacquer, freshly harvested, and a tray of mother-of-pearl shell pieces shimmering with rainbow hues. Today, I begin a journey that will span seasons: creating a set of mother-of-pearl beads and a bracelet using only traditional Chinese lacquer as the natural adhesive.
Chapter 1: Preparing Materials
Working with the Lacquer
Raw lacquer first leaves the tree pure white, but quickly turns brown upon contact with air. I place it under a shaded eave to "sun-cure," gently stirring it with a wooden spoon, watching its gradual change. This process, called "cooking the lacquer," requires days of patient tending.
Awakening the Shell
I carefully select shells from different regions. Each piece is meticulously hand-sanded until it's as thin as a cicada's wing, yet retains its toughness. During sanding, continuous rinsing with water gradually reveals the hidden rainbow colors within.
Shaping the Base
-
Wooden Bead Base: Aged camphor wood is turned into beads. The wood is stable and bonds well with lacquer.
-
Lacquer-body Bracelet: Layers of cloth are pasted onto a clay mold, with lacquer paste applied between each layer. Once hardened, the clay is washed away, leaving a light but strong lacquer base.
Chapter 2: Building the Foundation
Applying Cloth and Clay Paste
This is the core secret for durability. Cloth is pasted onto the base with lacquer. Then, a paste of lacquer and clay powder is applied in three stages: coarse, medium, and fine. Each layer must cure completely and be sanded smooth before the next. This is repeated five to seven times.
Black as Night
I apply "black polishing lacquer." Each coat is thin. After application, the piece cures for seven days, is sanded smooth, and the next coat is applied. After the eighth coat, the surface is like a deep, quiet night sky.
Chapter 3: The Inlay Process
Carving Grooves
On the pre-designed pattern, I carve shallow grooves into the lacquered surface. The groove depth must precisely match the thickness of the shell pieces.
Inlaying with Lacquer Paste
I mix raw lacquer with fine ash powder into a paste. Using a bamboo pick, I place a tiny amount into the groove, then immediately set the shell piece. The pressure must be just right.
Curing the Bond
The inlaid piece must rest in a controlled chamber for seven days. Here, a chemical reaction bonds the lacquer to the shell, while the paste hardens for a mechanical grip.
Chapter 4: Concealing and Building Depth
Building Up Layers
I begin covering the shell with many layers of clear lacquer. Each coat cures for seven days and is sanded smooth. To fully submerge the shell, over twenty layers are needed—a process spanning months.
Chapter 5: Revealing the Beauty
The Zen of Wet Sanding
When the layers are thick enough, I begin wet-sanding to reveal the shell. Starting with coarse sandpaper, I gradually sand away the surface lacquer, constantly feeling for the shell layer beneath.
The Rainbow Emerges
The moment the shell is fully revealed is magical. It no longer sits on top but seems to grow from within the lacquer. Light refracting between the layers creates a deep, three-dimensional glow that modern adhesives cannot replicate.
Chapter 6: The Final Polish
The Warmth of the Palm
I use the traditional "palm polishing" method with fine powders and oils. The warmth of the hand helps draw out a warm, subtle luster from within the lacquer.
The Final Touch
A final, extremely thin coat of diluted lacquer is applied, cured briefly, and lightly polished. This step, repeated three times, achieves a surface that is mirror-smooth yet warm to the touch.
The Finished Piece
-
Mother-of-Pearl Beads: Twelve beads, each with a unique pattern. The colors flow beneath the surface when turned. They feel warm and calming in the hand.
-
Mother-of-Pearl Bracelet: Inlaid with a "Waves Chasing the Moon" pattern. The black lacquer shifts tones in different lights, and the shell's colors dance with every movement of the wrist.
Thoughts on the Craft
Why spend half a year on this process?
-
Permanence: Centuries-old lacquerware often has intact inlays. The natural bond resists time, acid, and heat in ways synthetics cannot.
-
Depth: The technique creates a unique "beauty of depth," with light traveling through layers for a nuanced glow.
-
Dialogue: Using lacquer is a natural affinity between materials from trees, sea, and earth.
-
Practice: The curing and polishing are a meditation in patience and focus.
Care Instructions
-
Wear it often. The oils from your skin will enhance its luster.
-
Avoid prolonged sun and extreme dryness.
-
Clean only with a soft, damp cloth.
-
Fine scratches can often be gently buffed with a fingertip and a tiny drop of oil.
Epilogue
I hold the finished bracelet to the light. The shell pieces are now ocean memories sealed in a time capsule. In an age of instant results, this craft reflects another dimension of time. Here, slowness is depth, and waiting is part of maturity.
This set waits for its wearer. It won't shout for attention but will reveal its beauty through daily companionship. When warmed by skin and marked by time, it completes its rebirth—from a handmade object into a companion for life.
The life of lacquer is long. In creating with it, we briefly join a conversation across time. The shimmer within the dark lacquer is a witness to patience, respect for materials, and the timeless beauty human hands can create.
